You also want all of the linkages to be the same length to prevent binding or improper movement as the fork compresses and extends.
This may take a spacer at the neck - you want the distance between the upper and lower pivot points on the trees installed on the frame, to be the same distance as the measurement between the upper and lower linkage points on the girder legs.
When you get them installed, it's important to fine tune them so the upper and lower linkage arms are parallel, to prevent binding. Here is a link to recent thread for a P&P girder, which was common, available round or square legs, had a built-in interchangeable rake (zero or 10 degrees) and options of one or two shocks (the square dual shock is rare, but their mono-girder is even more rare - perhaps as rare as a Wayne Engineering girder) where there was the need for a new shock, and lots of pics, discussion, links and info.: Is it that XS650 in your avatar you're throwing it on? Not sure what you mean by a stem bracket, but guessin' ya mean a neck post, that connects between the upper and lower trees and fits through the neck, through upper and lower bearings, to fit on your frame. Really need an idea of what ya got to help with a replacement shock - if it originally had one.or two, coulda been a coil spring.straight or a variable rate barrel shaped one. Better the quality of pic, the easier to identify. I'm wondering how I should go about finding the correct size shock and making a new piece to mount the stem so I can put it on a bikeNeed pics.good ones close up of the upper area, from side, top, below and of the bottom, and a couple of the whole girder, front and side views. I bought a girder front end that was missing a shock and the stem bracket. Hey all, I'm really new to this whole custom bike building thing. I think they did 2 catalogs a year and inventory changed over time but you can no longer buy direct from them if they even exist at all anymore. But heres from the 1984 Edition of the Jammer catalog. ** I found the disc with the other pictures on it, I have other catalogs but TNC is your best bet on that one. (The oil inside overheats) However modern shocks are much better designs and quality so consider that before using any old crusty swap meet find. My experience with vintage shocks on front ends were that ridden hard, the shocks got overwhelmed and didnt perform well. The dealer then fitted the springs to the application IE: 250cc Triumph vs 500 vs 650 or 750 Triumph but most ran the same shock. For example on vintage British bikes most were fitted with one specific brand and the specs were the length and shrouded or unshrouded.
#I would like a picture of a girder front end on a chopper free
Shock absorbers themselves are just a shock and designed for certain applications but dont care if its on the back of a Bagger, Minibike, or a Girder, they have holes and fluid inside, the spring and free length as well as travel are specced to match the application.
TNC seems good at ID'ing period front ends, on the springer "How do they ride" post I inserted some period photos of the Jammer catalog as I have several old copies, but they ran a shock on Girders and IMHO was one of the best setups.īut not all girders run a shock, some just a spring (Bouncy Bouncy) and springers & Girders with only springs tend to pogo. Post good pix and measurements of the part thats missing.
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